I purchased my Goldwing with the intent of
doing some extensive touring. This is to be the first of what hopefully will be many trips
to see the country from a unique perspective, the back of a motorcycle.
Day 1 - Clayton, NC to
Brevard, NC: 294 miles
Did not go as far as planned. Had to replace a new tire that was
out-of-round and because the brakes were put back incorrectly, had to stop in
Charlotte to have them fixed. Spent more time in dealerships than on the
bike. Hope this is all of the mechanical problems for the trip and not
an omen.
Took Rt. 64 from Raleigh to Asheboro, Rt. 49 (a NC scenic highway) to
Charlotte, I-85 and Rt. 74 to Hendersonville, and Rt. 64 to Brevard.
Entered the mountains and crossed the Eastern Continental Divide a little
southeast of Hendersonville. Rt. 64 from Hendersonville to Brevard is a
nice ride with rolling countryside and lots of greenery.
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Day 2 - Brevard, NC to Memphis,
TN: 526 miles
Took Rt. 64 from Brevard to Chattanooga, I-75 & I-24 to Rt. 64 again
into Memphis. Although the rain and fog limited visibility and picture
taking, Rt. 64 through the mountains to TN was still a great ride - twisting
curves, trees forming canopies over the road, placid lakes, raging rivers,
waterfalls, mega-buck vacation homes, and of course, mountains. Just
across the border on the TN side, there were dozens of rafting & canoeing
outfitters catering to the white water crowd. The road followed the
river for a number of miles with numerous pull-offs for enjoying the view or
launching your watercraft. Rt. 64 from Chattanooga to Memphis was a
pleasant ride and is a nice way to cross the State.
How often do you get to park your motorcycle behind a
waterfalls?
Bridal Falls, NC |
Couldn't get my bike behind this one
Dry Falls, NC |
White Water Heaven
Ocoee Wildlife Management Area, TN |
I'll bet they wish they were riding a motorcycle
Ocoee Wildlife Management Area, TN |
Favorite bumper sticker of the day: "Ask me about microwaving cats
for fun and profit"
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Day
3 - Memphis, TN to Oklahoma City, OK: 502 miles
Took I-40 from Memphis to Oklahoma City. Due to the rain, I chose to
make miles instead of sightseeing (they were forecasting four more days of
rain). Having an 18 wheeler blow by you at 80+ mph in a downpour
definitely puts the thrill back into Interstate driving.
The Ozarks in western Arkansas were pretty - looks like a good place to ride
sometime in the future. Despite the poor weather, there were times when
the sun poked through clouds, the right song was on the radio, the traffic was
light, and the view was pleasant that I smiled and thought... "life is
good"
Favorite bumper sticker of the day: "Nuke the whales"
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Day
4 - Oklahoma City, OK to Amarillo, TX: 264 miles
Took I-40 from Oklahoma City to Amarillo. As if the rain was not bad
enough, it turned cold. I pulled out the fleece jacket liner, put on the
ski gloves, stuck a habanero chile into my shorts, and shoved off.
Definitely, not my favorite way to ride across country. Finally, with no
end to the rain in sight, I checked into a motel in Amarillo (the game plan was
to camp at Clayton Lake State Park in NE New Mexico). I once told Ben Franklin
"after three days, rain and company grow tiresome". Should I
assume it can only get better?
Favorite billboard of the day: "Free 72 ounce steak, if you eat it
all in one hour"
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Day
5 - Amarillo, TX to Dulce, NM: 482 miles
Took I-40 from Amarillo to Rt. 385(N) to Rt. 87(W) to Rt. 64(W) to Dulce.
The rain finally stopped (at least until late afternoon) but was replaced by
heavy winds. Riding over 200 miles in 30-40 mph crosswinds is almost as
much fun as driving in the rain on the Interstate.
Fortunately, the view improved dramatically. Texas was huge expanses of
land, ranches and farms, as far as the eye could see. As you near NM, the
mesas and arroyos so typical of the Southwest appear. The drive from
Cimarron up through Cimarron Canyon State Park to Taos is spectacular! Ran
into rain in the San Juan Mountains at 10,500 feet and crossed the Continental
Divide coming into Dulce.
So this is where old Cadillac's go to die
Amarillo, TX |
Cimarron Canyon State Park, NM |
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, NM |
Rio Grande Gorge, NM |
Taos Ski Valley, NM
|
Double rainbow
Rutheron, NM |
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Day 6 -
Dulce, NM to Grand Canyon,
AZ: 473 miles
Took Rt. 64(W) to Rt. 160(W) to 4 Corners, Rt. 191(N) to Rt. 163(W) through
Monument Valley, Rt. 160(W) to Rt. 89(S) to Rt. 64(W) to the Grand Canyon.
Finally, a perfect day! Perfect weather, perfect scenery, perfect
bike.
The ride from Dulce to 4 Corners was great. Beautiful, huge mesas and
arroyos highlighted by the early morning sun and close enough to touch. There was virtually
no traffic. Just me and the bike. It's times like this that hearing
that engine purr is the sweetest sound next to a woman saying "yes".
4 Corners is interesting but too commercial for my tastes. All of the State and
Federal parks are charging fees which I have mixed feelings about. If it's
a building or structure which requires significant upkeep, then I can sort of
understand. But to pay to see a waterfall or where 4 states come together
seems a bit much.
Monument Valley is a must visit! Incredible columns of rock and unreal
vistas. Wish I had had a dual purpose bike for the self guided tour.
Almost camped there but it was too early in the day and it was pretty hot (low
humidity or not). Camped at Desert View in the Grand Canyon.
Obligatory 4 Corners photo
Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona |
Monument Valley, Utah
|
Monument Valley, Utah |
Monument Valley, Utah |
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Day
7 - Grand Canyon, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ: 115 miles
Took Rt. 180(S) to Flagstaff. Decided to give my body a rest.
Explored the Canyon in the morning before taking a leisurely drive down to
Flagstaff and checking into a motel early. Approaching Flagstaff, the road
is lined with tall Ponderosa Pines and some Aspens. Most of the public
lands in New Mexico and Arizona are under EXTREME fire hazard warnings and as
such most trails and some parks are closed.
If I had forgotten that this is the tourist season, then the Grand Canyon was
a good reminder. People everywhere.
Grand Canyon, AZ |
Grand Canyon, AZ |
Grand Canyon, AZ |
Grand Canyon, AZ |
Favorite animal of the day: a coyote in the middle of the road around
the rim of the Canyon
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Day
8 - Flagstaff, AZ to Durango, CO: 302 miles
Took Rt. 89(N) from Flagstaff to Rt. 160(E) to Durango. Terrain went
from hilly to high plains desert to the foothills of the Rockies. You
don't realize how much you perspire while riding through the desert because it
evaporates immediately. Am looking forward to the cooler, mountain riding
of Colorado.
Met Ray & Dorothy from Fayetteville, NC, who had taken the Mother
Road/Rally trip from Chicago to LA as part of a two month tour of the country. They said it was an enjoyable
ride and
would consider doing it again. Their favorite part was the people and the
friendships that were formed over seven days of riding together. The worst
part was the ride across the Mojave desert where they estimated temperatures at
over 120 degrees. Agreed to meet them in Silverton on Saturday for the Silverton Jubilee Folk Music Festival.
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Day
9 - Durango, CO: 16
miles
Today, I did nothing and I did it slow. I have been fighting a
rare combination of pneumonia, bronchitis, pulmonary edema, and perhaps, a touch
of hanta virus so I slept most of the day.
Durango is a quaint place with an old time, turn of the century atmosphere
about it. The Animas River runs right through town and while riding, I saw
people fly fishing, kayaking, and rafting not more than a couple of blocks from
main street. This whole area is an outdoorsman's paradise.
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Day
10 - Durango, CO to Silverton, CO: 57 miles
Took Rt. 550(N) to Silverton. This is part of the San Juan Scenic Highway
loop that covers 236 miles through the old railroad and mining towns of Durango,
Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Rico, and Cortez. From what I saw
today, this is a "must ride" for motorcyclists. When it comes to
describing natural phenomena, I seldom use the word "awesome" east of
the Mississippi - Niagara Falls and occasionally, Mindy at the bike shop.
Out here, every other word is "awesome".
Met Ray and Dorothy in Silverton. They had already picked out the best
camping site at the festival - close to the bands, the water spigot, and the
porta-potties (the porta-potties and adjacent bushes provided additional
entertainment value not advertised by the festival committee). I pitched
my tent, had a small beverage for medicinal purposes, and became one with the
environment.
Base Camp (as we explorers like to call it)
Silverton, CO |
View from Base Camp
Silverton, CO |
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Day
11 - Silverton, CO: 15 miles
I am not sure how to describe the Silverton Jubilee Folk Music Festival. Eclectic is the first word
that comes to mind. Woodstock on a smaller scale. The 60's, 70's,
80's, 90's and planet Ork all rolled into one. It's not an experience for
everyone but for those willing to take a chance and remember how they felt in
their twenties, I would recommend it.
One warning: there is no oxygen at Silverton (altitude ~9,300
feet). Holding your breath for two days is tough.
Ever wonder what Santa does in the off-season?
Ray & Dorothy (Cool Couple) |
Silverton Folk Music Festival
|
Silverton Folk Music Festival |
Silverton Folk Music Festival |
Silverton Folk Music Festival |
Waterfall between Silverton & Ouray |
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Day
12 - Silverton, CO to Montrose, CO: 139 miles
Took Rt. 550(N) to Ridgway, Rt. 62(W) to Rt. 145(S) to Telluride,
back-tracked to Ridgway, and took Rt. 550(N) to Montrose. Based on what I
saw/experienced today, I would rank the San Juan Scenic Highway as my all time
favorite ride to date. Incredible collection of 14,000 foot peaks linked by
historic, old towns.
Great ride with Ray and Dorothy up the mountain to Ouray where we had
breakfast. Ouray is surrounded by huge, sheer rock mountains - it's like a
little Switzerland. As Ray and Dorothy headed to Grand Junction, I rode
over to Telluride. The drive along Rt. 62 paralleled snow capped peaks
most of the way. Rt. 145 into Telluride followed a sparkling, white water
stream up through a red cliff canyon. Definitely worth the ride!
After two days of camping with minimal facilities, checking into a motel with
a hot water shower was one of the highlights of the day.
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Day
13 - Montrose, CO: 6 miles
Woke up to thunderstorms and lightning. Took the opportunity to do
laundry and rest. Still fighting major respiratory problem - probably, the
clean air.
Went to a movie tonight. As I walked out of the theater, there was my
big, beautiful (albeit dirty) bike just sitting there looking great.
Several people stopped and we talked a little about the bike and my trip. Then, I cranked
it up and rode, no helmet - no jacket, back
to the motel, enjoying an intoxicating evening in a small town in
Colorado. Almost enough to make me feel sorry for people who do not ride.
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Day 14 - Montrose, CO to Poncha Springs,
CO: 171 miles
Took Rt. 50(E) to Poncha Springs. I am running out of superlatives for days
like this. Let's just say I had too much fun.
The Black Canyon was a terrific surprise. With views as stunning as the
Grand Canyon, you have the added advantage of being able to drive down a 16
degree gradient road to the river below as well as along the south rim. It is one
of the narrowest and steepest canyons in the world with sheer drops of up to
2700 feet. If you have a fear of heights, this is definitely not the place
to visit. Added bonus - not crowded.
After the canyon was yet another drive along a white water stream with rock
cliffs jutting straight up in the air. Next came Lake Mesa which is
literally a huge, elongated lake flanked by beautiful mesas. There were
hundreds of boats and campers along the lake. After Gunnison, you begin
your ascent through Monarch Pass which at ~11,300 feet has all of the changes in
scenery, weather, and temperature that you would expect of a major pass crossing
the Continental Divide.
I arrived in Poncha Springs around mid-afternoon just ahead of the showers that I
have come to expect this time of day. Hope to use this as my base camp
for the next two days before meeting The Dawson Gang in Denver on Friday.
Gunnison River
Black Canyon, CO |
Gunnison River
Black Canyon, CO |
South Rim
Black Canyon, CO |
South Rim
Black Canyon, CO |
South Rim
Black Canyon, CO |
South Rim
Black Canyon, CO |
Favorite animal of the day: a pronghorn deer/antelope in the middle of
the road on the canyon rim.
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Day 15 - Poncha Springs, CO:
0 miles
Was treated to a Rocky Mountain thunder and lightning display this
morning. In addition to individual bolts of lightning, there were multiple
bolts that formed a web covering the horizon and that danced among the mountain
peaks. At times, the noise was deafening. Although the storm passed
by mid-morning, I elected to rest up for my rendezvous tomorrow with the highly
trained, professional riders from Raleigh, NC.
On another note - when not camping, I have started staying at small "Mom
& Pop" motels. In addition to saving money, I have found this has
led to meeting some great people and being introduced to local restaurants and
sites of interest. If one's schedule permits, I would recommend it highly.
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Day 16 - Poncha Springs, CO to
Denver, CO: 308 miles
Took Rt. 24(N) to just below Leadville, Rt. 82(W) through Independence Pass
& Aspen to Glenwood Springs, and I-70(E) to Denver. Just when I think
it cannot get any better, it does.
Rt. 24 follows the Arkansas River and a series of 14,000+ foot peaks up to
Leadville. Rt. 82 into Aspen is the quintessential Rocky Mountain
highway. If you are over 40, it is what you dream of before beginning your
vacation. A narrow, twisting road up through towering snow capped
mountains where you get the feeling a grizzly or elk could step out into the
road at anytime. I crossed the Continental Divide again going over
Independence Pass at ~12,100 feet.
Aspen was beautiful but crowded. It reeks of money. I-70 from
Glenwood Springs east for about 10-20 miles is another spectacular route.
On your right are railroad tracks with tunnels that cut right through the rock
mountain and a beautiful river with lots of rafters. But what makes the
ride are the sheer rock cliffs on both sides of the road. Unfortunately,
there was no place to pull off (and back on) and take photos.
Met the NC riders in Denver. Glad to have some company to share
journey.
Today, the photos simply did not do justice to the experience.
Twin Lakes, CO |
Independence Pass, CO |
Independence Pass, CO |
Independence Pass, CO |
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Day
17 - Denver, CO to Custer, SD: 425 miles
Rt. I-70(N) to Rt. 85(N) to Rt. 26(W) to Ft. Laramie, Rt. 26 (W) to Rt.
270(N) to Rt. 18(E) to Rt. 385 (N) to Custer State Park.
The Sadists from the NC, who were still on Eastern time, elected to depart
Denver at 6:oo a.m. Obviously, I am going to have to explain the concept
of VACATION to these type "A" personalities. For a change of
pace, I thought I would ask the other members of the party to describe our daily
rides...
Charlie & Debby: Fun Day. Buffalo by the side of the road was
the biggest surprise.
Frank: Has to be seen to be believed.
David: Needles Highway was the highlight of the day - just wish it had
been the beginning of the day, not the end.
Karen: Threading the lightning and thunderstorms was the best part of
the day (obviously, this is a highly disturbed woman).
Cathie: Longest, bestest ride so far.
Mike: If I had had my Corbin (seat), it would have been a great day.
Well, the national poet laureate's job is secure for another year. I've
seen Clint Eastwood movies with more descriptive dialogue than this group.
Meanest, orneriest biker gang this side of the Pecos
Denver, CO |
Our highly trained, professional staff
Ft. Laramie, WY |
Okay, where did we park the bikes?
Ft. Laramie, WY |
No passing lane
Custer State Park, SD |
Award of The Day: Goes to Lisa Rhea for riding 425 miles the first day
after receiving her motorcycle license. Iron Butt Association watch out.
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Day
18 - Custer State Park, SD to the Badlands, SD to Custer State Park, SD:
306 miles
Took Rt. 36(E) to Rt. 79(N) to Rt. 44(E) to the Badlands Loop and back
again. Not since Butch Cassidy and the Hole In The Wall Gang, has the
Badlands seen such a group of nefarious and unsavory characters...
Roger & Cathie: Hi Sparkie, wish you were here.
David: The Badlands gave me a have a whole new meaning of water &
soil erosion.
Frank: I really did not think it was all that bad.
Paulette: I had my free water and homemade ice-cream at the famous Wall
Drug.
Lisa: I didn't ride no bike.
Daniel: Frank is a good driver, I had a good time.
The Badlands, SD |
Okay, we split the money 4 ways...
The Badlands, SD |
Local community terrorized by biker gang!
The Badlands, SD |
Cathie's buffalo
Custer State Park, SD |
Best Buffalo Call: Goes to Cathie for "Here bison, bison,
bison..." (it really worked - see photo)
Favorite bumper sticker of the day: "You can have my gun, bullets
first"
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Day
19 - Custer State Park, SD to Onawa, IA: 496 miles
Took Rt. 36(E) to Rt. 79(N) to I-90(E) to I-29(S). After almost three
weeks and over 4,200 miles, I found myself not looking forward to getting on the
bike in the morning and going for a long ride. So, I said farewell to the
group (which was headed to Cody, WY) and turned the bike east back to NC. Wish I hadn't
burned-out so soon as: 1) I would like to have seen the parts of WY where
they were going and 2) I couldn't imagine a nicer group of individuals to
ride with than these people. Am looking forward to hearing about the
balance of their adventures.
Additional photos of the group's trip can be found at http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=1874964303&n=371262030,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=5643646303&n=400485403,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=5306097303&n=494356287,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=4773097303&n=1921244207,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=4790150403&n=1464663952,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=7110890403&n=1272821167,
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=7521890403&n=1031547929,
and http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=6492890403&n=2081186850.
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Day
20 - Onawa, IA to O'Fallon, IL: 513 miles
Took I-29(S) to I-70(E) to I-64(E). The rain returned. What I
found interesting is that wherever I stopped, people said things like
"yeah, we needed the rain, it's been awfully dry here". Maybe, I
should be paid to ride around drought stricken areas of the country!?!
RV's and campers are back in vogue - and apparently, bigger is
better. If you like flat, straight roads and lots of corn, then Iowa is
your State.
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Day 21 -
O'Fallon, IL to Norton, VA: 516 miles
Took I-64(E) to Rt. 402(E) to Rt. 23(S). Rt. 402 is a Mountain Parkway
and goes from rolling farmland to the mountains of eastern KY. The weather started out fine but continued to degrade throughout the
day. My hopes of reaching home by late evening were dashed when the rain
became a downpour in the mountains of VA.
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Day
22 - Norton, VA to Clayton, NC: 302 miles
Took Rt. 58(E) to I-77(S) to Rt. 52(S) to I-40(E). Rt. 58 from Norton is a good ride but becomes a great ride at
Damascus. As you head up into the Park toward the Appalachian Trail, the
road narrows and the trees form a canopy overhead. The creek/river
is right beside the road and after several days of rain, had become an angry
torrent of water that appeared eager to swallow bikers careless enough to miss a
turn. At times, the roar of the water was louder than the roar of the
engine.
I dreaded the I-40 link from Winston-Salem to Raleigh but was anxious to get
home. I did not speed, of course, but passed a lot of people that did. Arrived around mid-afternoon. Note to self: do not ride
motorcycle for a couple of days.
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Conclusion/Summary/Epilogue/Epitaph
Trip Statistics (via GPS)...
Total Miles: 6,077
Average Speed: 57.1 mph
Riding Time: 106.4 hours
Things I learned...
It's a big, beautiful country... and I have not seen nearly as much of it
as I thought I had.
The more enjoyable moments were off the beaten path and away from the
traditional "tourist" spots. The people were friendlier and
the pace more relaxed.
I can ride 300+ mile days for a week or two but then it becomes tiresome.
A trip like this is a "life experience" - something that you not
only remember forever but perhaps, in some small way, affects the way you think
about and
view life in the future.
Am looking forward to my next major adventure, "Sturgis or Bust", in
August. Stay tuned for further details.
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